THE BASIC CORE
- Coat that goes over everything (raincoat, winter coat, duster….).
- Jacket that layers under the coat, over the vest and cardigan.
- Vest that fits under (or over), the coat and jacket.
- Knit Top/s, T-Shirt or Shell (could be knit, bias, surplice wrap etc....) that has your best neckline, body shaping and sleeve length, and will nest under the vest/jacket/coat.
- Slim line pant
- Soft pant in a silhouette and length that flatters your figure.
- Cardigan that goes over the t-shirts and under the jacket or vest.
- Shirt your version of a shirt or shirt jacket that works with pants, might layer over the t-shirts and tops --- ideal if the vest slips under or over. Ranges from a classic shirt to jean type jacket, to Miyake-esque big shirts.
- Skirt in a shape and length that works on your figure, in your life and goes with the above tops.
- Dress in your best shape and length that will layer under the coat or jacket or cardigan.
Black Japanese Cotton Jacquard Jacket
- Lengthened the body about 1-½”.
- Lengthened at the hem about 3-½”.
- Converted the one piece sleeve to a two piece sleeve using these instructions from Threads.
- Lined the sleeve to the edge with a silky smooth striped acetate lining.
- Adjusted the sleeve length. Sewed the sleeve in place, pressed.
- Adjusted the sleeve lining so it is about ½” longer than the sleeve, sewed the lining together.
- Stitched a row of stay stitch plus around the cap of the sleeve lining. This eases in the fullness and the stitching makes it easy to turn under the seam allowance.
- The Sew Everything blog gives a good description of stay stitch plus.
- Sew the lining to the sleeve at the hem. I added the vent when sewing the lining to the sleeve hem.
- Finished the back neck edge with narrow bias.
Silk Taffeta Vest
Sewing and Design Tips
- Lengthened the body of the vest about 1-½”.
- Lengthened the peplum 3”.
- Did a FBA (full bust adjustment).*
- Cut the stripes going different ways. (had to re-cut one peplum piece to adjust for this).
- Narrowed the collar height by about 1”.