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Playing With Panel Prints — It’s All In the Cut

—MARCY TILTON STUDIO
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BY KATHERINE TILTON — Panel prints have become a darling of the fashion world, so more and more are available to sewists. The obvious and simple thing is to simply place the panel dead center on a garment and be done. Take a look at two creative variations using our French digitally printed panel knits. Panels are great fun to play with when you consider other layouts and design options. Start with a pattern that has simple lines, ideally one you have already made especially if you are just beginning to hone your design skills. Both tops use Butterick pattern B6633.

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Katherine’s Tips

  • The simple asymmetrical lines of this tunic make it perfect for playing with panel print fabrics. 
  • The two-piece front and back offer even more options. Know that you can always eliminate the front and/or back seam and cut each piece whole. To do this, overlap the seam allowance in the center and cut as one piece. 
  • I used two (34” x 59”) ’Sam Francis’ double panels from MarcyTilton.com.
  • Rather than centering the ‘painted’ portion of the panel on the front or back, the pattern pieces were cut so that the design moves around the sides of the shirt, which creates a flattering solid vertical band down the middle of the front and back. 
  • Be purposeful and consider all the possibilities of how the pattern pieces can be laid out. Then go for it! 
  • The fronts and backs are placed so that the ‘painting’ parts come together at the side seams and a balanced amount of solid remains to form the vertical bands both in the front and back. 
  • Before placement, move the split neckband pattern piece around and consider the band ends, which meet in the front, so they include some of the bright ‘painting’.  
  • The sewing part is quick and straightforward — follow the pattern instructions and use the split neckband option that meets at the front seam. This is a subtle but important part of the design.

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‘Hope Mountain’ panel backstory

This design was created for ready to wear to be used as a shirt. We fell in love with the subtle colors and design. It reminds us of home - we live in a valley in Oregon, looking out on Hope Mountain.



Katherine’s Tips

  • I used one (56-1/2” x 60”) ’Hope Mountain’ panel for a size small, if you are a larger size, you might want 2 panels.
  • Match the panel at center front, center back and side seams.
  • Front and back are laid out on the largest panel piece.
  • Cut the two sleeves and neckband from the remainder; place sleeve pieces to take advantage of the design so that each sleeve is a bit different and all three pattern pieces fit.

Be sure to:

  • Make all pattern adjustments before you layout the pattern: full bust adjustment, sleeve length, neckline finish, finished length, etc.
  • Move the pattern pieces around, contemplating design options, before you do your final layout. You are limited by panel size, pattern size and fabric stretch — whether it is 2-way or 4-way — color and design.

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505 SPRAY B5891 b6101 b6106 B6283 b6521 b6565 b6633 b6667 b6668 B6719 b6992 butterick Coat COOL COMBO CORE demo denim double needles dress HAND STITCHING hems hoodie jacket KANTHA KNIT lace linen linen mesh Muslin panels pant paristilton pocket PONTE ratti SELVAGE Sheets shirt shirting cotton silk STRIPES T-Shirt TIPS TOTALLY STABLE TRAVEL tunic tutorial UNDERSTITCHING v1637 V1660 v1689 V1694 V1694 v8975 v8982 V9057 v9112 v9171 v9174 v9193 v9244 v9254 v9272 v9283 V9284 v9287 v9300 v9303 v9317 v9322 v9329 V9332 V9352 v9358 V9374 V9376 V9507 VIDEO vogue
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